After the post about the eccentric and super pop Jeremy Scott's collection, I am back to base, back to minimalism with two another favorite collections for A/W 2012: Calvin Klein and J.W. Anderson. Both of them for the next winter presented us two very minimal and simply collections but after all I loved both of them.
Francisco Costa of Calvin Klein is known for his minimalist predilections, and continued in a similar vein for Fall 2012. He is one of the few desingers who really knows what it means: "Les is more", with his minimalist style he always success to impress me, even if some people believe that his simply cuts and his minimalist forms are pretty easy, that's not true. With a monochromatic palette of onyx, parchment, flint, poppy, and sienna, he took technical wool and cut it in rounded shapes: collarless coats featured generously curved shoulders and cocoon shapes. Mixing textures, the collection offered flint wool flannel and onyx shaved shearling shifts along with silk seam detail dresses featuring mesh panels. While certain lines seemed resolutely feminine--take rounded hips on a knee length wool coat, for example, or the hourglass created by wide hammered silver belts--others skewed almost architectural. Select A-line skirts were laser cut with pleats; technical wool or leather shifts were outfitted with bi-linear pintucks. Costa also took liberty exploring the tea length, sending out a slew of elegant shin skimming silk embroidered frocks.
In the other hand J. Anderson, one of my favorite designers, prefered minimalism with colour, old style gothic shoes and unusual fabrics. The collection could have been called “Mad Women,” with models dressed up like chic mental patients on the verge of being released from an involuntary hospital stay. But it could been also called "Police Woman" or "Bulletproof army", because the show opened with the straight jacket reimagined as quilted jumpers, or as bulletproof jackets of policemen. Standouts included his colorful oversized sweaters, voluminous plaid skirts and coats, and slick leather v-neck tops and trousers.
Photos: Vogue.it, collages by me.
Info by Vogue.it.